A Guide to Stripping Painted Hardware

Why in the world did they paint all the hardware?!? Sometimes they were following the height of fashion when paint became affordable and available to the middles class. (Who wants to look at all those out of fashion and unsightly oak doors with solid brass hardware?) For a lot of iron hardware it was painted black at the factory so it wouldnt rust. Sometimes the paint was added to hide deterioration on plated hardware. Lets face it though, most of the time carelessness led folks to not to remove the hardware when painting or to just slap another coat on top.

Thankfully restoring your vintage hardware has never been easier. While it is true that a good quality stripper will work just fine this method has several limitations. It needs adequate ventilation to be used indoors and can be expensive if you are doing a lot of hardware. Our favorite method at Historic Houseparts is to use a crock pot. We simply fill it with hardware, add water till it is covered, add a small squirt of dish detergent, a little basil (just kidding) and let it cook on low overnight. Viola in the morning the heat and water have softened and loosened the paint so it can be peeled or scraped off. There is no smell; it keeps the lead paint wet and much less of a danger, and there is virtually no expense.

I wholeheartedly recommend this method but I do suggest one thing before you take all the hardware off your doors, cabinets, and windows, test one piece first to see how you like the result. You might discover that your hardware is rusted and damaged beyond what you consider acceptable and you may decide that it is time to replace rather than restore.

Here is a list of the tools that help me to clean hundreds of pieces each year.

• Crock pot - destined never to be used for culinary purposes again
• Large slotted spoon or pair of tongs - for grabbing items out of the murky water
• 1 x 2 foot piece of cardboard - a soft, absorbent, disposable work surface
• A small thick towel - to hold hot items, sop up water, and wipe away grime
• A stiff plastic scraper - for pushing paint off the hardware
• Shown in the picture is a wooden scraper I made that is more comfortable to grip and has a point at one end for cleaning out the screw holes
• A flat head screwdriver for when you really need some extra help to get under the paint Go gently on solid brass and do NOT use on plated surfaces!
• I also have a custom tool for this. Pictured is a very large square cut nail that has been flattened at one end. It has a finer edge than most screw drivers and is just old and cool
• A large brass bristle brush for scrubbing These are great for many things, get 2!
• A dental cleaning tool for those tough corners and crevasses most drug store have them and they can be bent so you have one straight end
• A magnet for testing what metal is under the paint solid brass is not magnetic Beware if you think you might have post WWII hardware you might run into aluminum or zinc which is plated but not magnetic
• Nevr-Dull for basic cleaning and polishing Awesome product! http://www.historichouseparts.com/detail.aspx?ID=2588
• Bench grinder with wire wheel and/or a cloth wheel and metal polishing compound - optional
• Eye protection, HEPA dust mask and rubber gloves for yourself

Steps

• 1. Remove hardware and screws score along the edge of the hardware so you dont damage wood or surrounding paint that is staying - label hardware on back with a permanent marker and place in labeled baggies with their screws Warning! Gently pry out tight door hinges, iron hardware can snap apart if twisted.
• 2. Gently place a batch in a pot cover with water add a squirt of dish detergent cover and cook on low overnight or at least for several hours.
• 3. Take one item out at a time - if they cool off the paint will harden back up Beware! of the heat of the hardware iron will hold the heat much longer than brass. Dont forget to take the doorknobs off the spindle and let the water drain out. Dont submerge mortise locks
• 4. Push or peel the paint off with your scraper. Test with a magnet if you havent already. Do not use the screwdriver on items that have a plated finish or you may damage the plating.
• 5. Use the brush once most of the upper layers have been removed. Use the dental pick to get those stubborn corners of paint. If it cools off just throw it back in and work on a few other pieces for a while.
• 6. If you have a wire wheel available you can use it to quickly remove the last of the paint. Be sure to wear heavy gloves, eye protection and your HEPA mask for this part! Some of the bottom layers are a deviously durable oil based paint and you may need to use stripper or a wire wheel on these.
• 7. Remove residue with a rag or by rinsing in clean water. Rub with Nevr-Dull to tarnishing if desired; wipe periodically to remove loosened grime. If a like new finish is desired use a cloth wheel and polishing compound to greatly speed the process.
• 8. Dispose of all the disgusting crud in a plastic trash bag or and follow your local EPA regulations. Try not to pour the sludge at the bottom of the pot down the drain.
• 9. Protect your hard work Wipe iron and steel hardware with Feed-n-Wax to protect from rust. Repeat once a year or as needed. OR Paint your hardware with a thin coat of metal paint and stipulate in your deed that no one is allowed so slop paint over it ever again